I'm not sure I'm going to be able to keep up these EM Forster and Paul Scott puns.
Traveling on domestic air service here was interesting, but not bad. They didn't check ID once, although they were quite serious about baggage checks. Hyderabad seemed like much more of a real city. They have lines in the streets and dividers, and the traffic is less chaotic. At the hotel, I ended up booked at some fancy rate that came with my own personal butler who said he would show up within one minute of pressing a button. The whole being-waited-upon scene here takes some getting used to. For example, at each of the business meetings we had, there was someone to serve coffee and drinks and to make sure you were resupplied if you ran out. By the time we got back in the evening, I was really dead exhausted.
Today we went on a jaunt to see the
palace at Mysore. Along the way, we stopped at a Hindu temple and at the summer palace of the
last mogul king before the British took over. The temple was strange, since we were the only white visitors and for everyone else it is a religious experience. From what I understand, there are three Hindu gods (Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva), but there are something like 330 million ways they show themselves. And each of these deserves some kind of shrine. As you walk barefoot through the temple, there are many shrines with holy types taking donations and ready to bless you. Around the temples are people selling trinkets -- and I mean selling, selling, selling, won't take no for an answer without coming back over and over to try again and again, shoving it in your face selling. The summer palace and gardens were beautiful. The palace at Mysore reminded me a bit of Hearst castle, if only WR Hearst had more money.
The drive out to these places was an experience all in itself. Not for the faint of heart. Some of the things I saw: an elephant, people plowing fields with oxen, rice paddies, beggars of many varieties (pitiful looking children, legless men, old women), a totalled bus seemingly left in the road as a reminder to be more careful, dozens of close calls as we passed people and people passed us, farming under palm trees, a train so packed with people they were hanging out the doors, a motorcycle with a family of four on it. After a while it starts to feel like normal, sort of.
To top the experience off, we had the driver drop us downtown so we could eat at a restaurant my colleague had been to before. It was closed. So we walked back to the hotel. I am sure that I breathed in the equivalent of two packs of cigarettes in the 20 minute walk, except that if I had smoked filtered cigarettes it would probably have been a net plus on the health scale compared to the walk. The sidewalk population, mostly just normal folks out to have a good time on a Saturday night, was so large that it made New York look deserted. And to get back we had to cross the street (Mohatma Ghandi Drive). You really need to have some kind of death wish to cross the street around here. But, I am at the keyboard to prove I made it.